Month
by Month Guide to Canary Care
What
To Do, And When To Do It
For me the year starts the first week in December.
I return home with my show team from the National Exhibition Centre and
place them in the flight cages along with the other Fifes I am to retain.
All surplus birds should now have gone. Always retain
two yellow and two buff hens as spares in case one dies over the winter or
during breeding. This is particularly important if, like me, you retain
one or two old hens because of their history and pedigree.
General Management
This is the month for winding down after a hectic
breeding and show season. Christmas is a good time to wash the breeding
cages and partitions thoroughly with a mild disinfectant such as
Vandoline. Also empty and wash all show cages and perches and put them
away for another year.
Place the hens in the largest flights possible. If
certain cages get early morning sun then the priority should be to allow
the old hens access to this. In a small stud it might be possible to house
the cocks singly but I keep my 16 cocks together.
In order to avoid territorial squabbles, do not
keep just two or three cocks together.
Offer baths at least once a week and clean out the
flights weekly. When replacing the sawdust sprinkle granulated charcoal
and oystershell grit on to the floor.
This month the days continue to get shorter so the
length of daylight should not be changed by artificial light. Set the
thermostat at 7 – 10C. Allow the birds plenty of fresh air but close the
windows on very cold or damp nights.
Diet
We now need to start the slow process of preparing
for next year’s breeding season. Some of the show team might be a little
overweight but once in the flights much of this will be lost. Keep birds
on a plain diet of 50% Plain Canary and 50% Haith’s deluxe or Super
Canary.
Greenfood as described earlier is very important and
I provide it daily throughout the year but broccoli and similar should be
given at least every other day with apple once a week
Give them the softfood mixture once a week but there
is no need for condition seed this month.
If greenfood is not available, one of the proprietary
iron and vitamin tonics should be added to the drinking water twice a
week.
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General Maintenance
This is worst month of the year for the aviculturists
as the activity is one of feeding and cleaning out and the breeding season
seems so far away. This is when wooden nest pans can be made and linings
can be sewn into the pans in preparation.
Continue to offer baths weekly, even in the coldest
weather. Finish off washing and painting breeding cages. Increase the
daylight hours in the morning by 10 – 15 minutes a week only.
Diet
Continue with the December diet but now add a little
of my condition mixture and no more than 10% niger to the mixture. Niger,
being a member of the thistle family, is a mild conditioner. Watch any
Fife that chases other birds off the mixture and frantically eats the
niger as it may be out of condition. Niger should be fed sparingly; it
does not reduce the risk of egg-binding.
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General Management
Towards the end of the month I like to paint my
breeding cages and partitions white and also spray the cage fronts black.
This also gives an air of anticipation for the forthcoming breeding
season.
Finalise the selection of your breeding pairs if not
already done so. Towards the end of the month catch every Fife and spray
its rump with Johnson’s Anti-Mite and then sprinkle Johnson’s Ridmite
powder all over its back and wings. When every bird has had this treatment
hang a Vapona block in the centre of the birdroom. This is the first
step in a process that will ensure you never have mite in your birdroom. Prevention
is better than cure and I have had no trace of mite even in the hottest of
summers for 20 years.
Increase the morning daylight by 15 minutes a week.
Diet
As January but feed a little more condition seed
mixture in addition to basic seed diet.
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March (1st half)
General Management
Two weeks after the Fifes have been given their
anti-mite treatment repeat the process so that any mites that were
incubating 2 weeks ago will be killed. Check for excess fat on any bird
and put those birds on a plain diet with plenty of greenfood.
Continue with regular baths.
Place the cocks in single cages. Trim the back toe
nail and middle front toe nail.
Extend the morning daylight for 15 minutes each week
this month.
Diet
As February but increase the condition seed mixture
slightly. Add a little wheatgerm oil to the mixture and allow it to soak
in overnight. Offer the hens additional cuttlefish bone or liquid calcium
in the water. Collect early seeding coltsfoot and chickweed but feed
sparingly. Dandelion leaves and roots cut down the middle also can be
offered.
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March (2nd half)
General Management
Treat unflighted hens for mite, trim their nails and
place them in single cages if they appear fit. The older hens and those
still overweight should be left in the flight cages until the middle of
April and given an iron tonic for 10 days.
Plant perpetual spinach and African marigold seed for
the summer.
Collect moss for nesting material but be careful to
wash it thoroughly. At the end of the month artificial light can be
discontinued.
Diet
As the first half of March but chickweed or early
dandelions can be provided quite regularly. Condition seed can be given
more often at the expense of condition food but not in excess – a daily
sprinkling is sufficient.
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Breeding is now well under way.
General Management
After the final clean out of the hen’s cages where
eggs are set, cover the cage floor with cat litter, which is very
absorbent. The cages can then be left until the young have been weaned
before the next full clean out.
Spray nest pan linings with anti-mite spray before
placing them in breeding cages.
If outdoor aviaries are being used, the soil should
be given a sprinkling of lime. Check the mesh for holes and paint it black
before any birds are allowed access.
Offer the hens a weekly bath until they have laid a
full clutch.
Diet
Feed chickweed and early seeding dandelions
particularly to backward hens. Provide plenty of cuttle for the hens. Do
not neglect the cocks; continue to feed them a little softfood and
greenfood regularly, although the hens will now be sitting on eggs and
only need a very plain seed diet.
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General Management
Remove Vapona block a couple of days before the first
young hatch.
At the third day after hatching run the cock back in
the cage for half an hour if you are using pairs. After 5 – 6 days he
can be left in to help the hen rear the youngsters without any trouble.
When the young are 14 – 15 days old put a second pan in the cage and
offer new nesting materials. Clean out the hen’s cage when the young are
weaned and have been moved to training cages at 22 – 24 days. Offer her
new cuttle and an iron tonic for a few days.
Diet
As April. Dandelion seeding heads will be plentiful
and can be fed to cocks and hens alike, particularly the ones who are not
in condition.
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General Management
Try to keep the birdroom as cool as possible in hot
weather. Keep a close eye out for stale softfood.
Diet
Green seeding dock should be available in plenty for
collection and feeding to the weaned youngsters.
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General Management
This is the month to end breeding operations and
concentrate on a quick, clean moult. Decide which adults you wish to keep
so that you can determine what youngsters to select for breeding.
Diet
Continue to feed the chicks green seeding dock and
seeding grasses regularly in addition to the softfood and greenfood.
Adults about to moult should be fed these in additions regularly.
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General Management
Hang training cages on to the flights so that
youngsters can run freely into them. Place the condition mixture in the
water pots to encourage this.
Offer baths as often as possible.
Diet
Feed plenty of wildfood and greenfood this month with
a few yellow African marigold flower heads.
Feed the hens that have stopped rearing an iron and
vitamin tonic in the water for few days.
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General Management
Start to train the first round youngsters. Place show
birds in single cages and spray several times a week.
Continue to offer baths as often as possible to the
reminder. Spray every bird with Johnson’s Anti-Mite and Ridmite powder
and hang a Vapona block in the birdroom until after the last show.
Sow black rapeseed in grow bags for spring feeding.
Diet
Add sunflower oil to the seed mixture this month at
the ratio of one litre bottle per 25kg of seed.
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General Management
Spray show birds every other day. Do not exhibit any
Fife that appears off colour as it could be ill and spread disease to
other birds at the show. In my opinion any exhibitor who shows a sick bird
should have all his birds withdrawn by the show manager to stop any
possible cross infection.
Diet
Continue with basic diet. Some fanciers feed pinhead
oatmeal to the Fifes to slow them down for showing but some birds are
liable to put on weight if fed too liberally.
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General Management
This month sees the main show season activity,
particularly the Fife specialist shows. Wash the show cages and perches
after every show and wipe the cage fronts with turpentine to nice a nice
finish.
Diet
As wildfoods are no longer available feed the
softfood mixture at least once a week with regular greenfood from the
supermarket.
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